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080 Barcelona Fashion Week: Designers to know; Clothes to buy

Fashion+Design· Seasonal· Self

12 Feb
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In just a little over a decade, the Barcelona 080 Fashion Week has quickly become a must-see event for its eclectic street style and upcoming Catalan talents who are mixing heritage and innovative ideas to create ready-to-wear collections and proving there’s much more to see (and shop) in the Catalan capital.

Under the motto “Undress Your Mind,” the 25th edition of Barcelona 080 kicked off last week with a renovated catwalk space, a new roster of up-and-coming names, and international guest designers presenting their autumn-winter 2020 collections and, in some cases, their spring-summer 2020 collections as the “see now, buy now” business model continues to gain popularity.

Among the international designers were South African label Chulaap, New York–based brand Love Bonetti, Athens-based Yiorgos Eleftheriades, and Peruvian designer Esaú Yori.

Here’s the short list of our favorites and where to find these coveted brands.

Designers Society

For its debut collection at the Barcelona 080, designers Pepe Generó and Raquel Colominas drew inspiration from California summers for their spring-summer 2020 offering. The loose, unrestrained silhouettes included sundresses, jumpsuits and clever separates in prints such as flowers and stripes and in solid colors such as orange, purple, green, desert pink and, of course, white.

The standout: a monochromatic paper-waist pants and blouse topped with a color-blocked paneled trench coat.

designerssociety.es
Carrer de Galileu, 303, 08028 Barcelona

Naulover

The iconic Spanish brand, which dates back to 1957, displayed smart monochromatic layering by mixing textures and lengths, illustrating endless wearing possibilities. Oversized coats, wide-leg pants and finely made cashmere wool knits were a nod to the Milan of the late 70s and early 80s.

The standout: the knitwear is an absolute must-have. But if you have to pick one piece (and can pull it off), go big with the long cable knit coat in ecru.

Naulover.com
Carrer del Rosselló, 218

Custo Barcelona

Legendary label Custo Barcelona presented a collection called “Wet Paint,” which in the words of the designer, Custo Dalmau, was “a tribute to the confident woman who is daring and innovative.” For Dalmau, this meant a hodgepodge of shiny fabrics and short, fitted dresses with multiple cutaways (showing lots of skin) topped with lettering and ethnic prints. If it sounds like there is a lot going on, it’s because there is, and that’s on-point for the Custo brand.

The standout: a white beaded top with billowing sleeves and metallic pants.

Custo.com
Plaça del Pi, 2, 08002 Barcelona

 

Sonia Carrasco

Staying true to her focus on sustainability, Carrasco presented a collection made entirely out of recycled fabrics named “45.376543, 59.651328,” which are the coordinates of the dried-up Aral Sea between Uzbekistan and Kazajistan. The color palette mostly consisted of earthy hues as a base, reflecting the desert inspiration of the designer, and contrasted with strong injections of red, purple, rose, and mint green. A multitude of separates offered a wide range of styling possibilities.

The standout: a flowing solid color dress topped with a roll neck sleeveless tunic.

sonia-carrasco.com

Boris Bidjan Saberi

He presented his first collection more than a decade ago in Barcelona, and had been showing in Paris before returning to this edition of 080. Saberi, a menswear designer of Persian and German roots, offered 20 looks in which he recapped his trajectory of de-structured, experimental and highly-engineered clothing that seem to be right out of a post-apocalyptic, urban warrior setting.

The standout: a transparent skin biker jacket made in collaboration with the Igualada technological center.

borisbidjansaberi.com

Pablo Erroz

The Mallorca native ditched the seasons and presented a collection that blurred the lines between summer and winter and toyed with the notion of gender. He offered mostly menswear with a good dose of traditional tailoring and sporty, colorful ensembles which could, in some instances, potentially find their way into a more feminine wardrobe.

The standouts: a fringed one-shoulder dress over pants and a crisp white ensemble topped with a camel suede parka.

pabloerroz.com
Carrer de la Canuda, 26, 1º2ª

Yiorgos Eleftheriades

This leading Greek fashion designer established his brand in 1992. Since the beginning, he’s incorporated eco-fabrics and introduced the concept of timelessness in his designs. This fashion week proved to be no exception. Eleftheriades offered pieces with a unisex appeal of structured shoulders with masculine suiting and contrasting textures, in a palette of mostly grays but with strategic infusions of Klein blue, burnt orange, and forest green.

The standouts: impeccable suiting and outerwear pieces.

yiorgoseleftheriades.com

Txell Miras

The Catalan designer had trans-humanist inspiration on her mind and expressed her concern for a future in which humans transcend their bodies through technology. Miras presented a series of contrasts in textures, colors, and silhouettes. For instance, classic wool knitwear—to represent the human aspect—was paired with neoprene, patent leather, and plastics, which evoked the machines. The results were silhouettes that could make a statement, yet remaining easy to wear.

The standouts: sharply tailored coats and jackets.

txellmiras.eu
Carrer de València, 229

Esaú Yori

The Peruvian guest designer, Yori, returned to his tailoring roots by toying with notions of classic masculine suiting in deconstructing garments and taking them to a feminine and powerful universe. This played out on the runway as sleek, deconstructed blazers and oversized coats with bold shoulders that looked coolly relatable with sheer mesh tops and white structured blouses.

The standout: an oversized camel coat that hits the sweet spot between trendy and real-life wearability.

esauyori.com

Get more information about 080 Barcelona Fashion Week here and then check out even more designers at these local fashion boutiques and the inimitable Darial.

About Graciela

Graciela Martin is a journalist and fashion stylist who regularly contributes to publications like the Business of Fashion and Modern Weekly Style. She earned a masters degree in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion, and worked for Panos Yiapanis at The Love Magazine and trained at publications like The Gentlewoman. Her love of fashion includes planning photo shoots and styling clients. When she's not focused on all things fashion, Graciela is onstage performing improv. Follow her on Instagram @gramartinm

View all posts by Graciela


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I feel like someone’s overcompensating for somet I feel like someone’s overcompensating for something…see next photo. But I like it! 🌱🪴
The best time (and only time in the summer) to be The best time (and only time in the summer) to be down in Barceloneta is between 7-10am before the hoards of people. Morning is for all the runners, cyclists, fitness and yoga classes and locals taking their morning swim!
Happy Barcelona Dogs! So there’s a new adorable, Happy Barcelona Dogs! So there’s a new adorable, and pretty posh dog store @petspirit.bcn that opened around the corner from me, and well, they love my pups and invited us to an ice cream social with @pupukis.food and the dogs went crazy for these helados!🍦🐶🐕
I have walked passed this lady several times now. I have walked passed this lady several times now. She’s quite impressive as you get closer and depending on where you stand changes everything! The exhibition of Juame Plensa “Poetry of Silence” at La Pedrera is over but this beauty is still sitting there, quietly.
If you like fancy hotel bars, fashion and vintage If you like fancy hotel bars, fashion and vintage posters stop in @elpalacebarcelona where they are celebrating 180 years of fashion with Santa Eulalia @santaeulalia1843 - the stunning family owned historic department store known for its selection of luxury designers and brands, as well as a world renowned men’s tailoring boutique and chic bistro. These two together make for one exceptionally stylish afternoon!
Visual representation of what Barcleona feels like Visual representation of what Barcleona feels like right now, a hot and humid jungle! This is truly a lovely spot, even to just sit and sweat. Do you know it?
Rule number one for walking around Barcelona, when Rule number one for walking around Barcelona, when the doors are open, that means you are welcome to step inside!  Free architecture, design and style are all around. Keep your 👀 open.
We eat Açaí on Sunday @acaiandme_ Play my Pistac We eat Açaí on Sunday @acaiandme_ Play my Pistachio 👏🏼
Vive la France 🇫🇷 Chateau Capitoul - only a Vive la France 🇫🇷 Chateau Capitoul - only a two hour train ride from Barcelona. @chateaucapitoul
The stunning interior of Boca Grande! Oh yes, and The stunning interior of Boca Grande! Oh yes, and the ridiculously delicious king crab legs 😳 oysters, flaming seabass, and deserts. I’m having a hard time articulating the extravagance of it all.
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