When I first moved to Barcelona, I never really got into the whole vermut thing. I tried it, of course, but I didn’t really get it. To me, it was just another drink. It wasn’t until the last couple of years that I started to understand what it really means — and now I love it. I love what it represents: slowing down, talking with friends, and just taking it easy while you sip a glass of vermut and share some small plates. That’s really what Sundays are about here. Sundays are meant to be savored.
They’ve always been my favorite day of the week anyway. I usually start with a long run, then have the entire day wide open — no tight schedules, no rushing. Sometimes I have plans, sometimes I don’t, but either way, I’m all for a Sunday vermut now.
So, what exactly is vermut? It’s a fortified wine infused with herbs, spices, and botanicals (think orange peel, cloves, cinnamon, wormwood) that make it a little sweet, a little bitter, and perfect as an aperitiu before lunch. It’s usually poured over ice with a slice of orange and an olive — simple, refreshing, and surprisingly addictive.
The tradition of vermut in Catalonia goes back to the 19th century, when local producers in Reus (just outside Barcelona) started making their own versions inspired by Italian vermouth. Before long, every neighborhood in Barcelona had its own bodega serving house vermut straight from the barrel. Meeting for a pre-lunch vermut became the weekend ritual.
Like so many traditions, it faded for a while and felt like something only your grandparents did. But in recent years, it’s made a comeback — not in a trendy, overdone way, but in that perfectly Barcelona way, totally casual, simple, and not overdone. Now, from classic bodegas with wooden barrels to new vermuterias with a modern twist, vermut is fully alive again.
You can certainly have vermut any day of the week, but Sundays are still its moment. It’s not about the drink as much as it is about the pause. For me, that’s what makes Sundays in Barcelona so special.
When people come to visit, I tell them to make sure to try a vermut, and if they are here on a Sunday when most things are closed, they should definitely go for a vermut! Here are a few of my favorite spots for a Sunday Vermut with friends or sometimes even on my own with a good book.
10 Places to enjoy a Sunday Vermut!
Note: Some of these are proper traditional Vermuteria’s others are Bodgegas, either way they are all great for having a Sunday vermut.
1. La Vermu
A super laid-back favorite in Gràcia where the vibe is casual and easy. It’s the kind of place to meet friends, linger, and talk for hours.
Gràcia: Carrer de Sant Domènec,15
2. El Villa
Very sleek and modern, with bright white tiles and a polished look that makes vermut feel fresh. It’s a stylish take on a very classic tradition.
Gracia: Carrer de Martínez de la Rosa, 27
Website:El Villa Vermuteria
3. Vermuteria del Tano
One of those old-school bodegas where the atmosphere alone is worth it. Expect a crowd, paper napkins tossed on the floor, and a classic neighborhood vibe.
Gràcia: Carrer de Joan Blanques,17
4. Bodega Marin
Love this one for the wall-to-wall decor. The kind of place where you immediately feel like a regular. Simple, unfussy, and exactly right for a Sunday vermut.
Gracia: Carrer de Milà i Fontanals, 72
5. Bodega Provença
I love this spot. It has a slightly posh feel with chic black and white tiles inside and plenty of street seating outside. The vermut comes in fancy glassware, the food is excellent, and it always feels like a treat to be here.
Eixample: Carrer de Provença, 233
6. Bodega Picarol
This is a nice and easy spot just off Enric Geranados.
Eixample: Carrer de València, 224
7. Bodega J. Cala
This one is tucked away in Poblenou near the Biblioteca Gabriel García Márquez a bit off the usual route. It’s worth the detour for a truly local vibe and a quiet vermut.
San Marti: Carrer de Pere IV, 460
8. Vermuteria la Cova de la Mari
Easy, laid back, and leans all the way to tradition. Very simple and unpretentious,
E’ixample: Carrer del Consell de Cent, 250
9. Casa Ràfols
Not a bodega, but a restuarant, but adding this to the list because it’s housed in an old hardware store, and it’s beautiful. Although sit at an outside table to sip your Vermut if the sun is out.
E’ixample: Rda. de Sant Pere, 74
10. Varmuteo
Literally jsut tried this spot this summer before a concert on Montjuic. It’s playful and contemporary, taking the classic vermut ritual and giving it a little twist.
Plaza España: Carrer de Vilamarí, 3
