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Barcelona Neighborhoods: Eixample

Guides· Local Living

10 Apr
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Gràcia, Gotico, and El Born may receive all of the attention, but Barcelona has a wealth of other neighborhoods just as distinct as the touristy favorites. Time Out magazine recently declared the Esquerra de l’Eixample (Eixample left) as the 2020 coolest neighborhood in the world. So, what’s the definition of ‘cool’ in the midst of a global pandemic? Neighborliness, kind, helpful, inclusive, with a strong community and plenty of independent businesses. As the best Barcelona neighborhood to live in, L’Eixample checks all those boxes (and then some). So what is this neighborhood? Turns out it’s more than just one.

The District of L’Eixample

After the last of the old city walls were torn down in 1873, an overcrowded Barcelona took a deep breath and flowered outward into Eixample, which means ‘enlargement’ in Catalan. This huge (and hugely trendy) neighborhood is broken into five areas: new left, old left, right, Fort Pienc, la Sagrada, and Sant Antoni. An aerial view of Barcelona reveals its unique “blocks” of buildings constructed around a central open space and streets laid out in a grid format. The city has added additional pedestrian, cycling, and green space on some streets, especially after the 2020 COVID-19 quarantine.|

Old Left (Antigua Esquerra): This barrio encompasses everything from pigeon-filled Plaça Catalunya to la Sagrada Familia. The large, airy flats here tend to have high ceilings, small balconies overlooking the street, wrought iron railings, and architecture typical of the Catalan modernisme movement. The neighborhood has now become a trendy spot for a thriving café and bar scene that caters to locals and tourists alike. It also has numerous book shops and easy access via Metro and bus to the rest of the city.

New Left (Nova Esquerra): The newer section of Eixample retains the block and grid concepts, but with, well, newer buildings. Although it contains its share of hotels and some tourist traffic, the neighborhood is mostly for locals. It doesn’t lack for bustling cafes, restaurants (including 2-Michelin starred Disfrutar), and small city parks.

Right (Dreta): The right side of Eixample is architecturally similar to the left and spans from the far side of c/ Balmes to Passeig Sant Joan. The neighborhood includes touristy Plaça Catalunya, the posh Passeig de Gracia, and Urquinaona (fun to say, fun to visit). If you want to see what draws so many people to live in Eixample Dreta though, check out gardens like the one at Palau Robert, and Mercat de la Concepció, the neighborhood’s traditional food market.

La Sagrada: This is the neighborhood immediately surrounding La Sagrada Familia. Despite the obvious draw of tourists, the area does manage to retain a residential feel and daily amenities like food markets, pharmacies, and bakeries are still available at local prices. Most restaurants cater to the tourists, although there are exceptions.

Fort Pienc: If Barcelona were to have a Chinatown, Fort Pienc would be the closest thing to it. In addition to a plethora of Chinese restaurants and shops, the Fort Pienc barrio boasts the Arc de Triomf landmark. Passeig Sant Joan cuts through the area and is a popular route for bike commuters. Fort Pienc’s l’Estacio del Nord station and the Arc de Triomf train station mean easy access to transportation, as both local and regional trains and buses go through them. The large park next to Estacio del Nord is one of the biggest green spaces in the city and makes for a terrific place to take the dog for a walk.

Sant Antoni: Best known for its enormous, cross-shaped central food market with the steel skeleton frame, Sant Antoni is poised to become the next big attraction for visitors (much to the dismay of some locals). Yet, it is still an area where people live and work. It’s also the neighborhood closest to the historic area of El Raval, which sees heavy tourist traffic and a significant amount of petty crime. Despite this, Sant Antoni remains a popular area to live and work, perhaps because rents here tend to be lower than in other parts of Eixample.

Although Eixample may have captured the number one spot, there are plenty of other neighborhoods that also rise to the challenge of being the best place to live in Barcelona. More to come!

Reference: 40 Coolest Neighbourhoods in the World Right Now, by James Manning. Time Out. October 2020.

 

About Teja Rau

Teja Rau handles content and operations for The Barcelona Edit. She is an avid traveler and seeks experiences that give unique insight into local culture and people. Her favorite part of Barcelona is all of Barcelona. She's an intermediate level flamenco dancer, occasional fiction writer, and loves all puns, not just the good ones. Connect with her on Instagram @tagbarcelona.

View all posts by Teja Rau


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One person’s trash is another person’s treasur One person’s trash is another person’s treasure! On a dog walk with my daughter today and we happened upon these tiles that were being discarded! 🤩 We dug to find the ones with no scratches or just slight imperfections and took a few home! Gave me @mesabonitabcn vibes for a minute 💛
You don’t have to go far to escape the city.🌿 You don’t have to go far to escape the city.🌿🍃🌱Jardines de Laribal, Montjuïc  #barcelonaexperience #barcelonaexplorers #barcelonaenamora #montjuïc
Have you ever seen such a zen metro station? Nicel Have you ever seen such a zen metro station? Nicely done Glòries Park🌵
Just Costa Brava, being Costa Brava. Just Costa Brava, being Costa Brava.
Where to eat lunch this week? We took a little fi Where to eat lunch this week?  We took a little field trip down to Barceloneta for one reason only: to try the much-hyped focaccia sandwiches at @focacceriabalmesina — and let me tell you, they were worth the trip and absolutely live up to the buzz.  These are the real deal: authentic Italian sandwiches made by Italians, using only quality ingredients and a whole lot of love. We paired ours with a glass of natural wine from @vinyestortuga - also Italian (but making wine here in Spain) and honestly, it was the perfect pairing. And this particular bottle didn’t taste like natural wine… if you know what I mean 😉  If you’re looking for a taste of Italy 🇮🇹 or just a damn good sandwich, get here.
Well, hands down the most exquisite ceilings in al Well, hands down the most exquisite ceilings in all of Barcelona: Casa Amatller, designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch for chocolatier Antoni Amatller. I finally went inside and was blown away by the design details of this place! It felt like a Catalan gingerbread house. I’ve always felt that the Casa Amatller façade is just as beautiful as Casa Batlló. Like, you can’t have one without the other. It only took an hour to tour, and I loved all the ornate details, definitely lots of Modernisme eye candy! 😍
Honestly, one of the most beautifully designed spa Honestly, one of the most beautifully designed spaces. A special place to chill and escape the heat, the Biblioteca Gabriel García Márquez is simply stunning. Every corner of this library feels as thoughtful as it is tranquil.
Went to see a lady about a babka! 🤩🙌🏼🤩 Went to see a lady about a babka! 🤩🙌🏼🤩🙌🏼
Just life in Barcelona on the daily! Just life in Barcelona on the daily!
There is a new refreshingly unique concept store i There is a new refreshingly unique concept store in L’Eixample that you just have to see 🤩 Vintage clothing,  beautiful home decor, ceramics, art, light fixtures, accessories galore, and so much more! @avantgardeconceptstore
Follow on Instagram
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