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Freixenet & Recaredo: Catalunya’s Cava Country Beckons

Food+Drink

28 Sep
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The Spanish wine landscape is so much more than sangria and red wine from Rioja. From fresh and fruity whites to big and bold reds, you can find any style of wine you’re interested in drinking. Cava is one of the best-kept secrets of Spain though. The profile of Cava wineries is rising in the international market and you can usually find it abroad, traditionally marketed as a sparkling wine, perfect as a substitute for Champagne or Prosecco. And this is true! Cava is amazing value for money because it has the same level of quality, complexity, and deliciousness that Champagne is famous for, at prices that are often half the cost of Champagne.

Cava glasses

Cava and the Penedès Region

Barcelona is the dream city for fans of bubbles. It’s conveniently located in the middle of Cava country. Only about 45 km east of the city sits the village of Sant Sadurní­ d’Anoia, the epicenter of cava production in the Penedès, the largest Cava producing area in Spain. One can only assume this is the reason Cava is abundant in Barcelona. I still get a little thrill ordering a “copa de Cava” on a regular evening, and not just saved for New Year’s and special occasions.

While you can never go wrong with any glass of Cava, knowing a little bit about it will increase the chance that you can find quality Cava and end up with a glass that you like. Just like Champagne, Cava has different taste profiles that are influenced by many factors. Age is the most straightforward factor.

If you want a party in a glass, choose a younger Cava. They generally are fresher, with zesty citrus notes and more intense bubbles. It’s also an excellent aperitif. As a Cava ages, it will develop more complex flavors, often described as toasty or nutty. The bubbles will soften and become less intense. Older Cavas get closer to what we expect from vintage Champagne.

To tell how long a Cava was aged, start by looking at the label on the bottle. A basic Cava will be aged for a minimum of nine months. A bottle labeled “Reserva” means the Cava will have been aged for at least fifteen months and a “Gran Reserva” for 30 months. Many producers continue to age their cavas for much longer than that based on the ultimate taste profile desired. Two other important terms to look for these days are “Corpinnat” and “Cava Paraje Calificado”. The terms indicate even more stringent requirements that dictate the winemaking process, including where grapes must be grown. These label terms are a good start if you are seeking out a higher quality wine to try.

A day trip to the Penedès region is the perfect way to expand your knowledge and take advantage of Barcelona’s prime location. Begin with Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, the original home of Cava, to learn about how this special wine is made and how the difference in producer philosophy influences the final product. This lovely Catalan town is home to several of the biggest names in Cava and Corpinnat and makes for the perfect starting point to see firsthand how Cava is made. Many bodegas have reopened with extensive safety measures in place and are ready to welcome guests. Sant Sadurni d’Anoia can be easily reached by train for a Cava adventure

Cava Wineries: Freixenet

Freixenet Cava

Even better, right next to the train station (and the first thing you see) is Freixenet. Perhaps one of the oldest and most well-known Cava producers in the world, Freixenet makes over 100 million bottles of Cava per year and distributes them widely. A visit to Freixenet offers a peek into this large scale operation as well a bit of time travel to the past. A private tour through the cellars of Freixenet is more like visiting a museum than a winery. The original facilities have been transformed to a display of the bottles, advertisements and machines originally used for winemaking at Freixenet. The history and nostalgia surround you as you walk through the cool tunnels. (Unfortunately, the usual fun small train ride through the modern production space is cancelled due to health and safety measures.) The tour ends the way every good winery visit should — with a tasting of two glasses of Cava on the scenic terrace with more options by the glass, if you want to explore some special bottlings that you can only find at the winery.

Recaredo Cava

Take a quick fifteen minute walk from Freixenet to neighboring Recaredo. Another institution of the Penedès, Recaredo began in 1924 and has led the charge over the last decade in improving the quality of Cava production in the region. A guided visit to Recaredo will show you a very different side of the industry. A much smaller operation, Recaredo is more of a living museum. The family still manages the entire winemaking process by hand, a true step back in time that’s evident winding through the cellar and seeing the history and tradition still proudly on display.

Cava Wineries: Recaredo

Recaredo is one of the founding bodegas of a new organization governing wine production in Catalunya, Corpinnat. The focus of these tours is the philosophy behind the organization and what that means for winemaking and viticulture in bodegas like Recaredo. All visits are organized for private groups at the moment, which is perfect for asking questions. The tour ends in the private tasting rooms where a flight of sparkling and still wines waits to showcase the experience and range that Recaredo offers. If you are lucky you might even meet Antonio, one of the second generation of Recaredo winemakers. Though retired, he is often around, keeping an eye on things and pointing out pictures of himself as a child in the cellars.

A visit to both Cava wineries offers the valuable opportunity to see and taste Cava from both ends of the spectrum and see how diverse this sparkling wine can be.

Next time you are looking for a special celebratory bottle, look for one of these at your local bodega or wine shop:

  • Recaredo Terrers Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2016, 25€
  • Recaredo Brut de Brut Serral del Vell 2013, 40 €
  • Raventós i Blanc de Nit 2017, 18 €
  • Huguet Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2010, 16€
  • Agustí Torelló Mata Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2013 17 €

About Katie Steen

Katie Steen is an international teacher who first came to Barcelona in 2014. After three years here, her adventurous side led her to a job in Bengaluru, India for two years. While Spanish wine was in short supply, to her great surprise, found that India has its own nascent wine industry. While it was an adventure to visit wineries and attend seminars in south India, she missed Barcelona too much and returned in 2019 to settle down with her partner and keep exploring the city she loves. She lets her passion for wine and gastronomy guide her around the city, as she seeks the latest and most interesting finds.

View all posts by Katie Steen


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I feel like someone’s overcompensating for somet I feel like someone’s overcompensating for something…see next photo. But I like it! 🌱🪴
The best time (and only time in the summer) to be The best time (and only time in the summer) to be down in Barceloneta is between 7-10am before the hoards of people. Morning is for all the runners, cyclists, fitness and yoga classes and locals taking their morning swim!
Happy Barcelona Dogs! So there’s a new adorable, Happy Barcelona Dogs! So there’s a new adorable, and pretty posh dog store @petspirit.bcn that opened around the corner from me, and well, they love my pups and invited us to an ice cream social with @pupukis.food and the dogs went crazy for these helados!🍦🐶🐕
I have walked passed this lady several times now. I have walked passed this lady several times now. She’s quite impressive as you get closer and depending on where you stand changes everything! The exhibition of Juame Plensa “Poetry of Silence” at La Pedrera is over but this beauty is still sitting there, quietly.
If you like fancy hotel bars, fashion and vintage If you like fancy hotel bars, fashion and vintage posters stop in @elpalacebarcelona where they are celebrating 180 years of fashion with Santa Eulalia @santaeulalia1843 - the stunning family owned historic department store known for its selection of luxury designers and brands, as well as a world renowned men’s tailoring boutique and chic bistro. These two together make for one exceptionally stylish afternoon!
Visual representation of what Barcleona feels like Visual representation of what Barcleona feels like right now, a hot and humid jungle! This is truly a lovely spot, even to just sit and sweat. Do you know it?
Rule number one for walking around Barcelona, when Rule number one for walking around Barcelona, when the doors are open, that means you are welcome to step inside!  Free architecture, design and style are all around. Keep your 👀 open.
We eat Açaí on Sunday @acaiandme_ Play my Pistac We eat Açaí on Sunday @acaiandme_ Play my Pistachio 👏🏼
Vive la France 🇫🇷 Chateau Capitoul - only a Vive la France 🇫🇷 Chateau Capitoul - only a two hour train ride from Barcelona. @chateaucapitoul
The stunning interior of Boca Grande! Oh yes, and The stunning interior of Boca Grande! Oh yes, and the ridiculously delicious king crab legs 😳 oysters, flaming seabass, and deserts. I’m having a hard time articulating the extravagance of it all.
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