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ICON: Casa Vicens, Barcelona

Fashion+Design

5 Oct
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Wedged between a farmacia and a school, Casa Vicens is an outlandish gingerbread house monster of a building on an otherwise nondescript little street in the Barcelona neighborhood of Gràcia. To be fair, only fields surrounded the house when it was completed in 1888 as the summer home of the Catalan stock broker/financier, Manuel Vicens i Montaner. Plus, it was Antoni Gaudí’s first house and we have to excuse youthful enthusiasm of the grandmaster of the Catalan architecture Renaissance’s.

While it contains none of the melting facades and tree trunk pillars associated with Gaudí’s later work, there’s still plenty there to hint at what was to come as the Catalan modernist movement exploded onto the architecture scene.  In 2005, Casa Vicens was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The house was renovated and fifteen rooms reopened to the public in 2017. Visitors can easily see the influence of Far East, neoclassical, and Moorish architecture on Gaudí’s unique style, along with his tendency to bring incorporate natural elements in his works.

Casa Vicens Exterior Fence

Iron palm fronds decorate the fence around the building and ceramic ivy leaves climb up the walls. Mudejar inspired windows and eastern influences were on trend in 18th century Barcelona and Casa Vicens drew the attention of Catalan elites (aka potential future patrons). Instead of plain building corners, castle-style towers stand at guard. An iron spider web, sans Charlotte, hangs above the garden fountain. The spider web later turns out to be part of a large porch, accessible from the inside.

Casa Vicens Entryway

Heading in the front door, it’s evident that Gaudí brought the outdoors inside as well. The ceramic tiles that dominate the exterior, find their way inside as well, making one wonder if Gaudí was in cahoots with the grout industry. The house has four levels and from the entryway and salon to the Turkish-inspired smoking room and bedrooms, ceramic tiles and sgraffiti cover the walls. The hypnotic blue floral tiles in the bathroom were surely put there as something for users to contemplate in the days before we could carry the Internet in with us. The for-gents-only (not any more, it’s not!) smoking room has smoky green tiles rising up to meet a cavern-like ceiling. Indeed, the ceilings in Casa Vicens are as decorated as any other space; maybe they spent a lot of time looking up in those days.

In 1899, Casa Vicens changed hands and the new owner, Dr. Antonio Jover, moved his family into the home on a permanent basis. He commissioned significant expansion (although not a second bathroom, go figure) to accommodate the family and the changing street, which had also expanded. Gaudí himself was way too busy with the Sagrada Familia construction (allegedly to be completed in 2026!) and only reviewed the plans proposed by the new architect, Juan Sierra de Martínez, who stayed true to Gaudí’s style.

As with any other Gaudí building, there’s far too much to describe given that every wall, floor, ceiling, and corner is tiled, statue-d, decorated, or otherwise shouting for attention. After all of that visual stimulation, you’ll definitely want to tomar algo. Head over to the Hofmann (yes that Hofmann) café in the courtyard for a miniature version of one of their signature croissants and a glass of cava (or coffee if you must). For a limited time, the ticket price includes the snack. If the snack isn’t enough, get the full-size version at L’Atelier.

Good to Know

  • Casa Vicens Hours: The house is open for limited hours on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, plus other days as specified.
  • Tickets for Casa Vicens must be purchased in advance online. The ticket office is closed.
  • Casa Vicens is the first museum in Barcelona certified for COVID-19 safety.
  • Getting to Casa Vicens: The house is easily accessible via public bus routes and within walking distance from the Metro Lesseps and FGC Gracia stations.
  • Take headphones with you so that you can download and listen to the audio tour.
  • Free WiFi is available.
  • Guided tours of Casa Vicens are not available at the present time.

Need more architecture? Check out Palau Güell, Casa Sayrach, and Hospital Sant Pau.

About Teja Rau

Teja Rau handles content and operations for The Barcelona Edit. She is an avid traveler and seeks experiences that give unique insight into local culture and people. Her favorite part of Barcelona is all of Barcelona. She's an intermediate level flamenco dancer, occasional fiction writer, and loves all puns, not just the good ones. Connect with her on Instagram @tagbarcelona.

View all posts by Teja Rau


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I feel like someone’s overcompensating for somet I feel like someone’s overcompensating for something…see next photo. But I like it! 🌱🪴
The best time (and only time in the summer) to be The best time (and only time in the summer) to be down in Barceloneta is between 7-10am before the hoards of people. Morning is for all the runners, cyclists, fitness and yoga classes and locals taking their morning swim!
Happy Barcelona Dogs! So there’s a new adorable, Happy Barcelona Dogs! So there’s a new adorable, and pretty posh dog store @petspirit.bcn that opened around the corner from me, and well, they love my pups and invited us to an ice cream social with @pupukis.food and the dogs went crazy for these helados!🍦🐶🐕
I have walked passed this lady several times now. I have walked passed this lady several times now. She’s quite impressive as you get closer and depending on where you stand changes everything! The exhibition of Juame Plensa “Poetry of Silence” at La Pedrera is over but this beauty is still sitting there, quietly.
If you like fancy hotel bars, fashion and vintage If you like fancy hotel bars, fashion and vintage posters stop in @elpalacebarcelona where they are celebrating 180 years of fashion with Santa Eulalia @santaeulalia1843 - the stunning family owned historic department store known for its selection of luxury designers and brands, as well as a world renowned men’s tailoring boutique and chic bistro. These two together make for one exceptionally stylish afternoon!
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Rule number one for walking around Barcelona, when Rule number one for walking around Barcelona, when the doors are open, that means you are welcome to step inside!  Free architecture, design and style are all around. Keep your 👀 open.
We eat Açaí on Sunday @acaiandme_ Play my Pistac We eat Açaí on Sunday @acaiandme_ Play my Pistachio 👏🏼
Vive la France 🇫🇷 Chateau Capitoul - only a Vive la France 🇫🇷 Chateau Capitoul - only a two hour train ride from Barcelona. @chateaucapitoul
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