There’s a lovely garden on Montjuïc that I adore. I call it the lily pad garden, but its official name is Jardins de Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer — which is exactly why I just call it the lily pad garden.
This beautiful little spot is hands down one of my favorite places in Barcelona. It’s tucked away, quiet, and so peaceful. When you first arrive, there’s a large central pond, but off to the side are these wide, platform-like steps that climb upward, each one holding a pool filled with lily pads — big, fat green ones that almost completely cover the surface. In spring and summer, delicate white, pale pink, and soft yellow flowers bloom across them. There’s something very storybook-like about it. You can sit on one of the stone benches attached to the pools and just take it all in. It’s incredibly meditative. Therapeutic, even.
This is where my dog Rex once fell in. It was both the saddest and funniest thing I think I’ve ever seen. I believe it was his first full plunge into water! I was in shock, watching him doggy paddle with his head just bobbing above the surface, trying to find a way out. The edges are all stone, so there’s no easy escape. He ended up paddling to the far end, where I met him and pulled him out. He was soaking, shivering, and looking slightly embarrassed. It’s one of my favorite memories here. The other one was last Spring when my daughter visited (it’s one of her favorite spots too) we came with Rex, and while he investigated all the lily pads, she sat reading her book. And I just stared at this perfect scene, her little head and Rex’s tail bopping around.
When people visit Barcelona, they usually rush to see the big things: the Sagrada Familia, the Picasso Museum, a day trip to Montserrat, and of course, all the tapas in the Gothic Quarter. But every so often, someone asks me about Montjuïc. And if they have the time, I always say yes, go. But let me guide you.
Montjuïc can be overwhelming — it’s massive, and sits on a hill, so tackling it can be challenging. It’s a park with roads, cars, and bus routes winding through it (kind of like Barcelona’s version of Central Park). There is a lot to see and do on Monjuic, so you need to have a bit of a plan. But if you’re not sure and just want a nice loop to experience a few gorgeous spots, this is exactly what I tell people.
Start at Plaça Espanya and head up to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. The views over the city get better as you climb, and almost always musicians are playing at the top. Your goal is the lily pad garden — map yourself to Jardins de Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer. On the way, you’ll pass the Jardins de Laribal, a lush, quiet place worth meandering. Then continue toward the Greek Theatre, which is surrounded by more stunning gardens and is one of those places where you can just sit and soak up your surroundings.
There are two other places worth mentioning on your route. One is The Salts – Terrassa Bar, perched above the Olympic Pool — the one made famous by that iconic diving photo from the 1992 Olympics. The view here is outstanding. If that’s too busy, head to Jardins de Joan Prats (or both), a casual park where I sometimes stop for a drink and watch the soccer field down below. It’s very local, very Barcelona.
This whole route is a loop I’ve done many times — it’s manageable, but still a proper walk. And for me, it always centers around getting to the lily pad gardens. It’s where I go time and time again to feel the simple, quiet beauty of it.
